| PCRI Tech
Tips
Welcome to "Tips from the Workbench." This month I will be discussing the
Brass Eagle Stingray.
As you probably know, the Stingray semi-auto is one of the biggest sellers
in Paintball history. It is the paintgun that gets many young players started
in the game. For around $100, you get a paintgun that can be a lot of fun
when it's working properly--it can be a nightmare (a little Brass Eagle humor
there) if you don't learn how to keep it in good working order. Let's take
a look.
First and most importantly you must keep the Stingray ultra clean if you
expect any degree of consistent performance. Make sure your gun's barrel
is clean as well as its internals.
Disassembly: Make sure you've disconnect the air source before attempting
to disassemble or work on your Stingray. First remove the two barrel push
pins using a straight rigid tool such as an allen wrench, punch, etc. Now
remove the three main body push pins in the same manner, and unscrew the
cocking knob. Pull the grip frame and barrel sleeve off and remove the internals.
Pop the bolt transfer tube and bolt out of the slot in the hammer. Tap the
two pins holding the constant air adapter out. Pull the transfer tube and
air adapter out of the valve body. At this point the hammer spring, guide,
bumper, and hammer should slide out the back of the aluminum housing. Now
you can remove the valve assembly from the front of the aluminum housing.
If your Stingray is leaking air down the barrel, chances are you'll need
to continue to break the gun down and replace the flat washer in the valve
assembly. Unscrew the brass valve seal retainer from the valve assembly.
Be very careful, it's under pressure from a spring. Take a look at the flat
rigid washer. Is it damaged anywhere? If so you will probably need to replace
it--if you're lucky, you may be able to just flip it over and reassemble
the gun. This flat washer makes the most important seal in the gun. When
you reassemble the valve assembly make sure the valve washer goes in after
the o-ring and that the beveled edge is facing downward. Before you reassemble,
make sure everything is clean and in good repair.
Trouble shooting the Stingray
Low velocity: Low velocity is a common problem, especially in older
Stingrays. I'll assume that you've checked all of the basic things here like
your velocity adjusting screw, your C02 tank, (is it cold or empty?), etc.
Is your gun clean and oiled?
There are a few modifications you can do yourself if you feel comfortable
and don't mind voiding your warrantee. You can slightly sand down the outside
face of the retainer seal so the hammer stem will push the valve stem further
open. This will allow for a larger gas burst which will increase your Stingray's
velocity. Make sure you use a very fine emery cloth or sandpaper.
You can also polish the valve stem very slightly. This will allow the stem
to move more freely, also increasing the gas burst. If you attempt these
modifications, be very careful not to take off too much--you're looking for
just a couple of thousandth's of an inch.
Inconsistent velocity: Is the gun clean internally? If so check the hammer
o-ring. It may be damaged, which can restrict its movement. Make sure you
are not getting liquid C02 in the gun as well.
Ball breakage: Is your paint fresh? Before you go crazy trying to
figure out why your gun is breaking paint, try a few different batches and/or
brands. If you've done that and still have a problem, inspect the front end
of the bolt. Look for nicks or burs that may be "cutting" the paintball is
it is being pushed into the barrel. Check your anti double-feed...is it still
in place? You may be feeding more than just one ball at a time.
That's my time--thanks for reading.
(About the author -- Rick Muncy is an Airgun Designs certified technician
and works as an airsmith at Pev's Paintball Pro-Shop in Woodbridge, Virginia.)
Fax your questions to Rick at (703) 491-6391.
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